When you first start out, try using a black mini rubber silicone polisher in a bullet or wheel shape. Black is the medium grade of these polishers and will set you off in the right direction. As you expand your knowledge and skills of your new craft you'll find you want a wider range of grades and shapes, they come in various shapes: knife edge, cylinder, wheel and bullet and various grades: coarse white in colour , medium black in colour , fine blue in colour and extra fine pink in colour these will be for your final polish and will help to add depth to your engravings.
We recommend:. If you're feeling adventurous then we supply a pack of 16 polishers which will give you 1 of each shape and grade. Make sure to use our recommended taper mandrel with the bullet and cylinder shaped polishers otherwise you may find the polisher flying off when you start your drill if the incorrect mandrel is used.
Also similar but more rigid and therefore harder wearing are the polishers from the EVEflex technik range. These are availble in cylinder and wheel shape. Helpful Note: When you engrave glass using a drill you can get a very pronounced illusion of depth without actually cutting deeply into the glass. If you have engraved a house and you want it to look more real then you have to imagine the sun shining down on the house. Some parts of the house will be in full sunlight, some in full shade and some in partial shade.
If you take an area of the house that wants to be in full shade but has been cut into with a diamond tool and now looks bright white all you have to do is polish the surface back with various rubber and silicone polishers until it is much darker.
The polisher will smooth out the marks made by the diamonds without substantially changing the depth of their cuts. This is important as the cuts give visual clues as to the relative positions of the parts of the house. Mini rubber silicone pin polishers are commonly used by glass engravers for the smaller, more detailed work. These pin polishers are 3mm in diameter and fit into their own special mandrel. They come in different colours and each one relates to a different grade thereby giving your work a different effect.
If you would like to take the plunge and start glass engraving we have a Bare Minimum Glass Engraving Kit for beginners, or if you would prefer you can join Lesley Pyke on her Patreon tutorial website and purchase a 'Lesley Pyke Glass Engraving Starter Kit'.
The kits contain a small variety of the above mentioned items so you can begin to engrave, add depth, shade and polish to your glass work. Take a look at this explanation video of some of our above mentioned tools. This is by 'Engraver Studio' from You tube. This is a really helpful tutorial on what each of the bits are and what they do. The below image shows some fantastic glass engraving work done by Graham Smith using the Bare Minimum Glass Engraving kit.
Here's a short introduction video from Lesley showing you how to use the different bits and burrs in your Lesley Pyke Glass Engraving Starter Kit:. It goes without saying that when handling electrical equipment and glass you need to be careful. Please use these tips as a reminder:.
The Guild of Glass Engravers - Network for glass engravers the world over. A super guild with some amazing talent from beginners to advanced. Lesley Pyke's Glass Engraving - Facebook page for beginners to learn techniques, share their work, ask questions and meet others. Furthermore, Lesley has some great Youtube videos that are very helpful. If you have a blog, organisation or a company you would like to see added on here please email us. You can watch the video or read the steps here, whatever you prefer.
The extension makes it a bit easier to do more detailed work, but you can also make do without. There are a lot of different bits in this set, but a good place to start is with a ball shaped one. The engraving will cause a lot of fine glass dust, so make sure to wear a dust mask and eye protection!
This will keep it stable without me having to hold it. I set the Dremel at a medium speed and started engraving. One direction of engraving will work better than the other. This is because of the rotation direction of the tool.
For me, it did the best cutting when pulling the tool towards me, so I drew lines onto the glass that way and lifted the tip up in between. Keep a wet cloth and a bowl of water nearby, so you can wipe away the dust regularly. Now that I have a feel for the tool, I can move on to making a more detailed design.
This way, all I had to do was trace the design onto the glass. I switched to a smaller ball shaped bit to allow for the finer detail. I changed the orientation of the glass several times along the way to make the engraving easier.
For the final details I switched to the thinnest bit I had, which allowed me to write the tiny letters on there. I then cut out the inside of the design, leaving me with a silhouette. I still had to freehand the branches and leaves, but being able to trace the outline definitely helped a lot.
Hi, awesome skills and design! What are the sizes of the diamond drill bits? Shaft diameter What speed should the tool be in when engraving?
Also, it would be easier if anyone could recommend something on Shopee, Lazada or Amazon for the drill bit set. Looking forward to hearing from you. The face mask being used in this instructable is NOT the proper protection for airborne glass dust.
It is not face-tight like a proper respirator and will therefore allow some dust past the so-called seal around the nose and cheek bones, plus under the chin. A warning should also be posted for users of ALL face masks that they are pretty-much useless for people with facial hair or rough skin.
One of the first 2-stage sandcarvings of a bluegill fish I did which quickly sparked my interest! Another advanced sandblasting process that is loved because it etches deep into glass for a very noticeable, elegant look which can be used with techniques known as stage blasting to create three dimensional art in glass. Eric, do you have a mini sandblasting gun.
I have standard equipment, a small sand blast cabinet and a 3hp compressor but i want a smaller more accurate sand blasting gun. I use a Harbor Freight siphon cabinet.
I use Aluminum oxide grit. Sample of my two stage glass. I use a Cameo plotter. Rhys, I do — I actually made my own and works great as explained above for the shadeblasting. I will actually be offering these on the site soon. Jay, Those cutters are a name brand product and are supposed to be high quality. They are made for cutting sandblast stencils up to 59 mils and I believe have a servo motor which is ideal for this. Cut out the image to a manageable size.
Tape the image down to the contact paper. Simple images with blocky elements, like clipart or a logo, are typically the easiest types of images to handle. Cut out the design with a hobby knife or razor blade. Start cutting out the design starting from the inner details and moving your way out. Cut through the contact paper around the edges of the image. As you cut out pieces of the contact paper, lift them up to remove them.
Apply the contact paper to your glass. Peel off the paperback of the contact paper to reveal the adhesive. Press the design onto your piece of glass in the position that you want.
Apply etching cream over the stencil with a brush. You can purchase a bottle of etching cream online or at an arts and crafts store. Dip a size artist paintbrush into the cream and spread a. Smooth out the cream with your brush so that it's an even layer and covering the entirety of your image.
Etching cream is acidic and can burn and irritate your skin if you get it on you. Read the label on the etching cream to learn about any special instructions or precautions that you need to take with your brand of etching cream. Leave the etching cream on the glass for 3 minutes. The cream will react with the glass and make the areas that you applied it to foggy. Rinse off the etching cream and remove the contact paper.
Rinse the glass under cold water to remove any remaining etching cream. Then, peel the contact paper from the surface of the glass.
If you did everything correctly, you should now see your etched design on the piece of glass. Method 2. Purchase a handheld rotary tool online or at a craft store. A handheld rotary tool is a small electrical device that has a tip that looks like a pen and can be used to etch glass.
Look for a rotary tool with a flex shaft advertised in the product description or on the box. This will give the tool more flexibility, which will make it easier to control.
Experiment on less expensive glass objects first. Etching glass by hand is a skill, so your designs may not turn out perfectly at first. Etch on cups or cheaper pieces of glass to practice your technique before moving onto more expensive pieces.
Wear goggles and a respirator. Goggles and a respirator will prevent you from inhaling glass particles and getting glass dust in your eyes.
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